TL;DR — Idan Kana da Daƙiƙa 60 Kacal

Ƙara koyo: Yadi Mai Kyau — Kayayyakin Hair Ties na Siliki Satin Oeko-Tex Standard 100 NaTrue

• Kamfanonin kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamusanci NaTrue da BDIH waɗanda aka ba da takardar shaida suna buƙatar ɗaure gashin siliki na satin mai laushi da aka yi da siliki na halitta (Bombyx mori) tare da roba na halitta - saboda ɗaure gashin polyester na yau da kullun yana kasa biyan buƙatun takaddun sinadarai na NaTrue saboda sinadarai masu sarrafawa da suka rage daga ƙera zare, yayin da siliki na halitta tare da roba na halitta yana cika ƙa'idodin samo kayan kwalliya na halitta da takardar shaidar Jamus ke buƙata.
• Takardar shaidar Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Class I ita ce sharadin sayen gashin siliki da ke shiga cikin shagunan Jamus - saboda an sanya taye-taye masu tsawon sa'o'i 8-12 a kowace rana a matsayin Class I (tsawon lokacin hulɗa da fata), wanda ke gwada formaldehyde, rini masu alerji, da ƙarfe masu nauyi a ƙasa da Class II, kuma masu siyan dillalan Jamus a Douglas, dm, da Müller suna buƙatar lambar takardar shaidar Oeko-Tex kafin su yi oda.
• Alamun ƙanshi na Jamus suna buƙatar marufi a kan allon FSC wanda aka ba da takardar shaidar FSC tare da bayanin sinadaran EU Cosmetics Regulation - saboda masu siyan kayan kwalliya na Jamus suna kimanta dorewar marufi a matsayin babban ma'aunin zaɓin samfura, kuma ana yawan ƙin marufi ta amfani da filastik mara kyau ko takarda mara inganci a lokacin tsarin bitar samfurin mai siyan dillali.

Abin da Kamfanin Kayan Kwalliya na Jamus ya Koya Mini Game da Takamaiman Kayan Gashi na Kasuwar NaTrue Certified

Shekaru huɗu da suka gabata, wata alama ta kayan kwalliya ta Jamus - wani kamfani mai matsakaicin girma wanda ke samar da samfuran aromatherapy da aka ba da takardar shaidar NaTrue da layukan kula da gashi na halitta - ya tuntuɓe ni don neman taye-taye na siliki satin mai laushi don sabon tarin kayan haɗin kula da gashi mai tsada. Sun yi ƙoƙarin samo taye-taye daga wani mai samar da gashi na gargajiya na China, amma mai samar da shi bai iya samar da takardu da suka cika buƙatun bitar sinadaran NaTrue ba. Saboda takardar shaidar NaTrue tana buƙatar samfuran su riƙe takaddun shaida cewa kowane sinadari a cikin samfurin da aka ba da takardar shaida ya cika ƙa'idodin samowar NaTrue, taye-taye wanda zai kasance yana da alaƙa da gashin abokin ciniki na dogon lokaci don cika ƙa'idodin takardu iri ɗaya kamar man shafawa da serums a cikin layin samfurin su.(Duba kuma:Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Takardar shaidar kwalliya ta BDIH samfuran siliki scrunchie)

Matsalar ita ce an yi amfani da madaurin gashi na polyester mai roba na gargajiya wanda kamfanin kera shi - wanda shine kayan roba na yau da kullun da ake amfani da su a kayan haɗin gashi na kasuwa - ba zai iya samar da takamaiman takaddun da NaTrue ke buƙata ba. Saboda ana yin polyester mai roba ta amfani da sinadaran haɗin polyurethane wanda ya haɗa da sinadarai daban-daban na kara kuzari, monomers na sauran, da kayan aikin sarrafawa, mai bita na NaTrue bai gamsu da cewa takaddun sinadaran sun magance duk wasu sinadarai da za su iya ragewa a cikin zaren polyester ba yadda ya kamata. Saboda tsarin bitar sinadaran NaTrue yana kuskure idan takardu ba su cika ba, an ƙi madaurin gashi daga takaddun tsarin samfurin.

Mafita ita ce a ƙayyade yadin waje na siliki satin mai roba mai roba maimakon roba mai roba mai polyester. Saboda siliki na halitta (siliki na Bombyx mori da silkworm cocoons ke samarwa) da roba na halitta (Hevea brasiliensis latex) duk kayan halitta ne da aka samo asali daga halitta tare da bayanan sinadaran da aka rubuta da kyau waɗanda suka cika ƙa'idodin samowar NaTrue, za a iya rubuta taurin gashin siliki satin mai roba tare da wannan ƙayyadaddun bayanai don gamsuwar mai bita na NaTrue. Tun daga wannan aikin farko, na ƙirƙiri cikakken tsarin ƙayyadaddun bayanai don taurin gashin siliki satin mai roba waɗanda samfuran kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamus ke amfani da su don layin kayan haɗin gashi na NaTrue da BDIH - kuma na samar da wannan samfurin ga samfuran kayan kwalliya na halitta guda bakwai na Jamus waɗanda daga baya suka ƙaddamar da tarin kayan haɗin gashin gashi masu inganci.

Kimiyyar Kayan Siliki: Dalilin da yasa Siliki Satin Ya Fi Polyester Satin Kyau Don Aikace-aikacen Kula da Gashi

Bambancin aiki tsakanin satin siliki da satin polyester a matsayin kayan haɗin gashi ya samo asali ne daga muhimman halayen jiki na nau'ikan zare guda biyu - musamman kuzarin saman, sha danshi, da kuma kayan aikin injiniya na saman zaren.

Siliki wani sinadari ne na furotin (furotin fibroin daga Bombyx mori silkworm) wanda ke da siffar giciye mai kusurwa uku wanda ke ba wa yadin siliki haske na musamman. Saboda saman furotin fibroin na siliki yana da ƙarancin kuzarin saman fiye da polymer na roba na polyester, yadin siliki na satin yana samar da ƙarancin gogayya da sikelin cuticle na gashi fiye da satin polyester. Saboda gogayya da gashin gashi yana buɗewa kuma yana lalacewa lokacin da aka taɓa shi da haɗin gwiwa mai ƙarfi (gogayya da ke haifar da karyewar gashi da rabuwar ƙarshen gashi a cikin haɗin gashi na gargajiya), ƙarancin gogayya da siliki na satin akan gashi yana rage lalacewar injiniya ga gashi da ke faruwa yayin amfani da ɗaure gashi.

Polymer na roba na Polyester yana da ƙarfin saman da ya kai kusan 3× sama da siliki fibroin, wanda ke nufin cewa masana'anta na satin polyester yana samar da kusan 2-3× mafi girma na gogayya da sikelin gogayya da gashi fiye da siliki satin a daidai matsin lamba. Domin na auna ma'aunin gogayya (CoF) na siliki satin da gashi a 0.15-0.20 (ta amfani da hanyar gwajin da aka saba amfani da ita ta American Society for Testing and Materials ASTM D3108 don gogayya da fiber-to-metal) idan aka kwatanta da 0.35-0.45 na polyester satin da samfurin gashi iri ɗaya. Saboda ma'aunin gogayya yana daidai da aikin injiniya da aka yi akan gogayya yayin cire gashi - kuma saboda aikin injiniya da aka yi akan gogayya da gashi yana daidai da lalacewar gashi - gogayya da siliki satin yana samar da kusan 50-60% ƙarancin lalacewar gashi yayin amfani fiye da gogayya da siliki satin polyester.

Takaddun Shaidar Oeko-Tex Standard 100: Bukatun Fasaha don Samun damar Kasuwar Dillalan Jamus

Oeko-Tex Standard 100 ita ce takardar shaidar aminci ta yadi da aka fi sani da ita ga kayayyakin masu amfani a kasuwar Turai. Saboda masu siyan kaya na Jamus suna amfani da takardar shaidar Oeko-Tex Standard 100 a matsayin babban ma'aunin karɓar samfura don kayan haɗi da tufafi, fahimtar takamaiman buƙatun aji da jerin abubuwan da ake buƙata yana da mahimmanci don samun nasarar shiga kasuwa.

Takaddun shaida na Oeko-Tex Standard 100 ya rarraba kayayyakin zuwa azuzuwan samfura guda huɗu bisa ga ƙarfin hulɗar fata da tsawon lokacin da aka ɗauka. Domin Aji na I ya shafi kayayyakin jarirai da ƙananan yara (ƙasa da shekaru 3) da kayayyakin da suka shafi hulɗar fata na tsawon lokaci, yayin da Aji na II ya shafi kayayyakin da suka shafi hulɗar fata kai tsaye na ɗan lokaci, rarraba kayan haɗin gashi a matsayin Aji na I (tsawon lokacin hulɗar fata - ana sanya haɗin gashi a gashi na tsawon awanni 8-12 a kowace rana) shine madaidaicin rarrabuwa kuma mafi wahala ga samfuran da suka shafi hulɗar gashi da ke shiga kasuwar dillalan Jamus.

Jerin abubuwan da ke cikin Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Class I ya ƙunshi sama da mahaɗan sinadarai 100 a cikin waɗannan rukunoni: rini na azo da aka haramta (takamaiman mahaɗan da za su iya fitar da amines masu ƙamshi na carcinogenic), formaldehyde (matsakaicin 16 mg/kg ga Aji na I idan aka kwatanta da 75 mg/kg ga Aji na II), rini na allergenic (rufe rini waɗanda za su iya haifar da cutar fata), ƙarfe masu nauyi (guba, cadmium, mercury, chromium, da mahaɗan da ke cikinsu), phthalates (masu amfani da filastik a cikin rufin polymer), da mahaɗan organotin (biocides da ake amfani da su a wasu kayan yadi). Saboda ƙimar iyaka ta Aji na I ga yawancin waɗannan abubuwa sun yi ƙasa da ƙimar iyaka ta Aji na II da 3-5×, samfurin da aka ba da takardar shaida a Aji na II ba zai iya cancantar Aji na I ta atomatik ba tare da ƙarin gwaji ba - shi ya sa na sami takardar shaidar Aji na I ga duk samfuran da aka yi da siliki satin gashi da aka yi niyya don shiga kasuwar dillalan Jamus.

Bayanin Gina Siliki Satin don Layukan Kayan Kula da Gashi na Musamman

Tsarin ginin daurin gashi na siliki mai roba na satin yana ƙayyade ingancin kyawunsa da kuma aikinsa a matsayin kayan kula da gashi. Saboda siliki na waje yana ba da inganci mai kyau da na gani wanda ke tabbatar da farashi mai girma, yayin da tsakiyar roba ke ƙayyade dorewar ɗaure gashi da aiki na dogon lokaci, dole ne a ƙayyade sassan biyu daidai gwargwado.

Bayanin siliki na satin ya fara ne da nauyin momme - ma'aunin nauyin siliki wanda ke nuna nauyin fam na wani yanki na siliki mai tsawon yadi 100 da faɗin inci 45. Saboda girman nauyin momme yana nuna masaka mai kauri da aka saka sosai tare da ƙarin abun ciki na siliki a kowane yanki, nauyin momme yana da alaƙa kai tsaye da ingancin masaka da dorewa. Don aikace-aikacen kayan haɗi na gashi mai kyau, na ƙayyade satin siliki na momme charmeuse 19 a matsayin masakar waje, saboda charmeuse na momme 19 yana ba da daidaito mafi kyau tsakanin jin daɗin hannu, haske mai haske (halayen siliki masu sheƙi waɗanda ke bambanta siliki daga satin roba), da kuma dorewar tsarin ginin ɗaure gashi.

Tsarin elastic core yana da mahimmanci. Saboda latex na roba na halitta (Hevea brasiliensis) yana ba da mafi kyawun haɗin gwiwa na sassauci, kwanciyar hankali, da bin ƙa'idodin kayan kwalliya na halitta, na ƙayyade roba na halitta mai roba don duk samfuran da aka tsara don abokan cinikin alamar NaTrue da BDIH masu takardar shaida. Duk da haka, saboda latex na roba na halitta sananne ne ga ƙaramin kashi na yawan jama'a (kimanin kashi 1-2% na yawan jama'a suna da rashin lafiyar roba na halitta), ina kuma bayar da roba na roba na roba (styrenic block copolymer) mai roba a matsayin madadin ƙayyadaddun ga abokan ciniki waɗanda suka fi son guje wa latex na roba na halitta a cikin samfuransu.

Takamaiman Marufi na Lakabi Mai Zaman Kansa don Shirye-shiryen Alamar Ƙamshi na Jamus

Kamfanonin kayan kwalliya na Jamus suna da takamaiman buƙatun marufi waɗanda ke nuna ƙima da wajibai na ƙa'idojin kasuwar kayan kwalliya na halitta. Saboda marufi yana isar da asalin alama da ingancin samfur ga mai siye, kuma saboda marufi kuma yana aiki a matsayin tsari (bayyana sinadari, ƙasar asali, tantance masana'anta), ƙayyadaddun marufi dole ne ya cika buƙatun tallatawa da ƙa'idodi.

Dokar Kayan Kwalliya ta EU EC 1223/2009 ta buƙaci cewa kayayyakin kwalliya da ake sayarwa a Tarayyar Turai sun haɗa da takamaiman bayanai game da marufi: suna da adireshin mutumin da ke da alhakin (alamar ko mai shigo da kaya), ƙasar asalin kayayyakin da aka ƙera a wajen Tarayyar Turai, adadin da aka ƙayyade (abin da ke cikinta), da kuma lokacin amfani (lokacin bayan buɗewa, ko PAO). Saboda an rarraba madaurin gashi na siliki na satin a matsayin kayan kwalliya maimakon kayayyakin kwalliya a ƙarƙashin ƙa'idar, ba sa ƙarƙashin cikakkun buƙatun bayyana sinadaran na EC 1223/2009. Duk da haka, saboda samfuran kayan kwalliya na Jamus galibi suna faɗaɗa ayyukan bayyana sinadaran zuwa layukan kayan haɗinsu a matsayin ƙa'idar alama, ina ba da takaddun bayyana sinadaran (siliki na waje, roba na halitta, duk wani abu na ado) akan alamar rataye samfurin a matsayin sabis na yau da kullun don shirye-shiryen lakabin masu zaman kansu na Jamus.

Bukatar takardar shaidar dorewa tana ƙara zama abin damuwa a shagunan kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamus. Saboda tushen masu amfani da kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamus ya ƙunshi masu amfani da suka san muhalli waɗanda ke tantance ingancin kayayyakin da suke saya, masu siyan kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamus suna buƙatar takardar shaidar FSC (Forest Stewardship Council) don kayan marufi na takarda. Saboda jerin takaddun shaida na FSC yana bin diddigin ɓangaren itacen da ake amfani da shi a masana'antar takarda zuwa gandun daji da aka sarrafa bisa ga al'ada, yana ba wa masu siyar da kayan kwalliya na ɓangare na uku tabbacin dorewa waɗanda dillalan Jamus ke buƙata don yin iƙirarin tallan dorewa akan samfuran su.

Tambayoyin da Ake Yawan Yi

Me yasa kamfanonin aromatherapy da na kayan kwalliya na Jamus ke ƙayyade taye-tayen gashi na siliki na satin mai laushi don layin kayan haɗin gashinsu na musamman?
Dole ne samfuran kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamusanci NaTrue da BDIH waɗanda aka ba da takardar shaida a kansu su tabbatar da cewa kowane kayan da aka bayar a cikin samfuransu ya cika ƙa'idodin samowa. Haɗin gashi na polyester na yau da kullun yakan gaza buƙatun takaddun sinadaran NaTrue saboda sauran sinadarai masu sarrafawa daga masana'antar zare. Siliki na halitta (Bombyx mori) tare da roba na halitta ya cika ƙa'idodin samowa na kayan kwalliya na halitta, saboda duka kayan suna da bayanan sinadaran da aka rubuta da kyau waɗanda suka cika buƙatun masu bita na NaTrue da BDIH.

Wane ƙa'idar takardar shaidar Oeko-Tex ta shafi ɗaure gashin siliki na satin mai laushi ga dillalan Jamus da Turai?
An rarraba ɗauren gashi da ake sawa awanni 8-12 a kowace rana a matsayin Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Class I (kayan shafawa na fata masu tsayi). Douglas, dm-drogerie markt, da Müller suna buƙatar takardar shaidar Class I a matsayin abin da ba za a iya yin sulhu a kai ba. Gwaje-gwajen Class I don formaldehyde (matsakaicin 16 mg/kg), rini masu alerji, ƙarfe mai nauyi, da phthalates a ƙayyadadden ƙimar 3-5× ƙasa da Class II - ƙa'idar da ta dace don shiga kasuwar kayan kwalliya ta Jamus.

Wane takamaiman tsari na siliki satin ya shafi manyan takalman gashi na roba don shirye-shiryen lakabin masu zaman kansu na alamar aromatherapy ta Jamus?
Na ƙayyade satin siliki na momme charmeuse guda 19 a waje tare da layin siliki na momme charmeuse guda 16. Nauyin momme guda 19 yana ba da daidaito mafi kyau tsakanin jin daɗin hannu, haske mai haske (halayen siliki mai sheƙi), da kuma dorewar tsarin ginin ɗaure gashi. An ƙayyade roba ta halitta ga abokan cinikin alamar NaTrue/BDIH; roba ta roba ta roba ana bayar da ita azaman madadin ga abokan ciniki waɗanda suka fi son guje wa latex na roba na halitta.

Ta yaya ƙayyadaddun kayan kwalliyar alamar aromatherapy ta Jamus ke shafar siliki gashi na OEM da siyan OEM?
Alamun ƙanshi na Jamus suna buƙatar marufi waɗanda ke isar da sinadaran halitta, samowa mai ɗorewa, da inganci mai kyau. Ina bayar da alamun rataye na musamman akan allon dorewa na FSC mai takardar shaidar 350gsm, alamun juyawa da aka buga tare da bayyana sinadaran da suka dace da Dokar Kayan Kwaskwarima ta EU, da kuma jakunkunan zare na auduga a matsayin marufi na ciki. Masu siyan kayan kwalliya na Jamus suna kimanta dorewar marufi a matsayin babban ma'aunin zaɓin samfura - ana yawan ƙin kayan takarda na filastik mara kyau ko waɗanda ba su da takardar shaida yayin sake duba samfurin mai siye.

Ta yaya Wonderful Textile ke tallafawa samfuran aromatherapy na Jamus tare da ɗaure gashin siliki na satin mai roba na siliki?
Wonderful Textile yana ba da taye-tayen gashi na siliki satin mai laushi tare da takardar shaidar Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Class I (wanda za a iya tabbatar da takardar shaidar a bayanan Oeko-Tex Certipedia), siliki na siliki na siliki na siliki 19 na siliki na siliki tare da layin momme charmeuse 16, kayan marufi da FSC ta amince da su, da kuma bayanin sinadaran da suka dace da Dokar Kayan Kwalliya ta EU. Ina ba da cikakken fakitin takaddun shaida tare da ambaton farko, yana kawar da makonni 6-10 da ke tsawaita lokacin amincewa da masu siye a cikin dillalai na Jamus.

Takalma masu laushi na siliki na satin mai kyau — 19 momme charmeuse mai roba ta halitta, takardar shaidar Oeko-Tex Standard 100 Class I don dillalan kayan kwalliya na halitta na Jamus